Vinoble 2018 – History of a Solera – Sierra de Montilla and Moriles Alto

Left to right – Juancho, Bernado and Juan

This tasting, introduced by Juancho Asenjo, took us through the journey of the solera wines evolving from Mosto Yema through to the old Amontillados produced in the D.O. Montilla-Moriles.

The two superior quality production areas in the D.O. are the Sierra de Montilla and Moriles Alto. These areas lie 400 to 600 metres above sea level on the finest albarizo soils. Yields in these zones are limited to 60 hectolitres per hectare compared to 80 in the rest of the region.

Representing each of these areas were Bernardo Lucena, Oenologist of Bodegas Alvear who presented the wines from the Sierra de Montilla while Juan Márquez, Cellar Master of Perez Barquero Group (Gracia Hermanos) presented the wines produced from the Moriles Alto.

Each area’s wines were presented alternately and are listed below: –

Mosto Yema

  • Alvear – Musto Yema from Lagar de las Puentes in the mountains of Sierra de Montilla
  • Perez Barquero – Musto Yema Moriles Alto

(Yema – Free run juice obtained before pressing. Crushed by their own weight without any mechanical pressing. It is considered to be of the highest quality)

Finos

  • Alvear – Fino CB en Rama Sierra de Montilla – ABV 15%
  • Gracia Hermanos – 4th criadera of Fina Maria del Valle – Moriles Alto and Sierra de Montilla – ABV 15%
  • Alvear – Fino Capataz Solera de la Familia – 15%
  • Perez Barquero (Gracia Hermanos) – Solera Fina Maria del Valle en Rama – 15%

Fino Pasado (Old Finos)

These were finos that are bordering on the edge of becoming Amontillados

  • Alvear – Criadera /A – 16%
  • Perez Barquero (Gracia Hermanos) Fino Pasado – 16%

Amontillado

  • Alvear – Amontillado Carlos VII – an Amontillado that has been aging for more than 15 years in a traditional “Solera System” – ABV 19%
  • Perez Barquero (Gracia Hermanos) – Tauromaquia Amontillado Viejo – ABV 19%
  • Alvear – Solera Fundación Amontillado – ABV 20% –  From the label –
    This amontillado comes from the oldest soleras of the Alvear family. A generous wine elaborated from the Pedro Ximénez grape, which has gone through a prolonged stage of ageing under a velo de flor and later without it, in oxidative aging for decades in very old American oak butts.
  • Perez Barquero – Montearruit Amontillado ABV 23% – From the label – This is an Amontillado with over 70 years of age, mostly with oxidative ageing. This has concentrated all its components, reaching a natural alcoholic degree of 23%. Very intense and, at the same time, balanced. This wine was specially bottled for Vinoble 2018.

This tasting was an fascinating insight into the evolution wines through the solera systems of Montilla-Moriles. Starting with the Mosto Yema and ending with two exceptional old Amontillados with decades of ageing.

We first met Bernado when he hosted us at Alvear during our Technical Specialists course in September 2016. Subsequently, we had lunch with him along with María Alvear in Montilla in January last year when they introduced us to the 3 Miradas range.

Juan was part of a fantastic visit to the Perez Barquero in March 2017 along with Adela Córdoba Ruz. On the last day of Vinoble he kindly gifted us a bottle of the Moriles Alto Mosto Yema which we will post a review of shortly.

 

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